Pastis

My last minute idea of dinner at Grace didn't quite work out, but Pastis was in the area so I dropped by. There was no way in hell I was going to wait until 9:30pm for a table at Grace.

Mimosa is a few blocks away too so you know they'll try to outdo the competition.
Well...at least I hope they'd try. Good chefs at Pastis are constantly getting plucked away by bigger restaurants, so I guess it's hard to be consistent.


Appetizers

Warm Goat Cheese and Artichoke Tart

GOOD. Flaky crust, sweet filling and very mild goat cheese makes this a star on the menu. The salad is impressive as well. The basil infused olive oil and a light drizzle of vinaigrette totally makes the salad.

Steamed Mussels

I tried my hand at making these over winter break, and while they turned out really really well, these mussels made my culinary accomplishment seem like a child's work. I'd put the mussels at Pastis on the same level as Mimosa's. "Broth" is a bit lighter here, though, and more apparent taste from white wine.

Seared Foie Gras

How predictable that I'd order foie gras. At Pastis, they sandwich it between two slices of caramelized pears and place is on the zigzag of some really good sauce. I completely forgot to ask for a copy of the menu so it's kinda hard for me to ID it. Toasted raisin brioche is not to be missed. Mop up the sauce with it! I'd say this is one must-order item.


Entrees

Oven Roasted Cod

My first reaction was: "Wow that is a dinky piece of cod...." After I got over it, I really enjoyed the crispy skin and that deliciously fatty flesh. Portion size in comparison to other entrees still ticks me off a bit though.

I don't know how I screwed up the shot...

Roasted Duck Breast

Medium rare. Kinda tough to pull off without a lot of experience. Undercook it and the meat becomes almost rubbery. Overcook it, and Roger will be even more unhappy. Pastis did a pretty good job here, though it was a tad on the rare side. Regardless, I'd still declare this a winner on their menu. The entree comes with two amazing pieces of duck confit/mushroom/basil ravioli that really should be offered on the entree menu. I don't want to say that it steals the duck breast's thunder, but it is really pushing it. Order this.

Sauteed Skate

Skate is one fugly fish that looks equally fugly on a plate but the meat is soft n sweet. I really like the texture too--a weird combination of soft, springy, and stringy. The dish itself is rather rich, but lemon capers help balance things out a bit with some acidity. This is another must-order item.


Desserts

Peach Almond Tart

I very much enjoyed this dessert. The top layer consists of caramelized fruit, which I'm sure you can imagine, is quite effin' good. As you can notice, the edge of the tart's crust is slightly burnt. While I personally kinda like my crust like this, some people probably don't. It's probably a fluke. Unlike most restaurant desserts, this one was not overly sweet, which again wins it major points. The vanilla ice cream really puts it over the top, though. I've never had such good vanilla before. Scoop some into your mouth and your tastebuds will scream "VANILLA" on the top of their lungs.

Pastis Choclate Profiterolles

Looks like fried baby drumsticks, but they are actually puffs with a rich dark chocolate filling. I wish Pastis would give more than five though.

Assorted Sorbets (mango, lime, raspberry)

Good restaurant with good food and cute servers. I can't decide which restaurant I like better: Mimosa or Pastis. Kinda (barely) leaning toward Mimosa, though because of the availability of daily prix-fixe specials and overall experience. Both are great places for a date, too! Not like that matters to me, but maybe you guys (and gals) would benefit from it :D


Stay tuned for a writeup of Grace.
Also, Will has a new seaonsal dessert platter as well as a VDay event! RSVP FAST since there aren't many tables left.





Pastis
8114 Beverly Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90048
323.655-8822

Addison

If you've been to the Grand Hotel Del Mar but never eaten at Addison, I think you missed out. Some say Addison is a rebuttal against claims of our city's lack of good fine dining options. Others say it's our answer to fine dining on the East coast. (I came across such sentiments while browsing my holiday dining options.) Naturally, this screamed for my attention.


The initial plan was to order the holiday special (must be ordered for entire table), but at the last moment I decided to go with the normal menu items instead. This way I would be able to taste a wider array of Chef William Bradley's creations. I hope you guys will enjoy my review as much as I enjoyed dining at Addison.


Before I begin, I would like to thank General Manager Mark Steenge and his staff for not only impeccable service but also attending to all my needs and graciously allowing me to use a full tripod in the restaurant. Mr. Steenge's table selection for me was also very considerate, offering privacy, ample room to set up, and terrific lighting. Without his considerations, some of these photos would otherwise have not have been possible.




The meal started off with an amuse bouche that got me and my brother into a discussion into how the heck apples could be pureed into something this smooth and silky. Acidity from the green apple and the crème fraîche really got my stomach growling. As the Chinese would say, it was really "kai wei," or hunger/appetite inducing.


First Course:

Crevettes Rouge - salted peanuts, chives and black truffle jus

My first bite into the flesh of these succulent prawns pretty much set my expectations for the rest of the meal. I expected no less than perfection and Addison did not disappoint. The springiness of the meat is a testament to the skill and quality/freshness of ingredients you would find here. I'd be content just eating the prawns alone, but dabbing each bite into the black truffle jus takes the dish to a whole new level. The flavors compliment each other very well.

Yes, the truffle jus is delicious. I love that earthy mushroom taste so much that I tried mopping up the remainder with the fabulous brioche set on the table but the two just don't taste all that great together. Trust me on this one.

La Jardinere - fine herbs, candied quice, and parmigiano-reggiano

What? A salad? Yup. I (almost) never order salads on account that there are usually other menu items that interest me. Addison's seasonal menu, however, puts me in a very irritating position I rarely find myself in--I wanted to order everything. This salad features 15 different lettuces lightly drizzled with olive oil and some sort of cab-based dressing. The verdict: Damned. Good. Salad. Sure it does not have the *bang* on the palate like the prawns did, but the subtle differences in flavor among the various leaves was a fun experience for my tastebuds.


Second Course:

Confit of Porc Sale - ruby red beets and black licorice-balsamic glaze

Pork belly has found its way onto many restaurant menus, so obviously I had to try Bradley's version. It's been about five days since this dinner and every time I look at this picture I fantasize about how "melt-in-you-mouth"-good the fatty portion of the cut was. Yes, the leaner bottom half is very tender, but we all know the tastiest part is the fattiest part. The balsamic glaze lends its delicate flavor to the meat to make every bite nothing short of heavenly. Just don't forget to eat the beets.

Warm Potato Gnocchi - ricotta fondue, arugula and preserved lemon

It was hard to choose between this and the butternut squash/foie gras ravioli. It was at this point that I seriously considered ordering another set of four courses. I don't remember the last time I've felt this way about a restaurant. Such tempting menu items executed with Chef Bradley and Durfield's mastery...it is awe inspiring.

Though the photograph may suggest otherwise, this is not necessarily a "heavy" dish. If you do find yourself experiencing palate fatigue, the ricotta fondue and preserved lemon will freshen you right up. My brother who is a pasta and gnocchi fanatic gave this dish two emphatic thumbs up.



Third Course:

Spring Lamb Persille - toasted pistachio puree, date and sauce chevre

In some cases, a picture declares everything that needs to be said. I believe this photo to be one of those pictures. You hardly need me to tell you how juicy and delicious this slab of meat is. The pink center and dribble of juice tell the whole story. But, the date and toasted pistachio puree is not to be overlooked. Once again I am impressed by the pairing of flavors. "Pistachio butter" and the date work so seamlessly with each other, as does the goat's milk cheese and lamb.

Roasted Veal Tenderloin - jus de cepes and smoked potato puree

Admittedly, I did not taste much of the veal, as this was my brother's entree. Furthermore, the lamb fully occupied my attention when Sommelier Jesse Rodriguez poured me a wonderful glass of Cabernet. The two bites I did have, though, were just as impressive as my lamb. The nice thing about ordering this entree is the inclusion of an absolutely amazing bowl of mashed potatoes. I don't think you will easily find a restaurant that can top Addison's smoked potato puree. It is that damned good. Who knew such a simple comfort food with a twist would taste so good?


Fourth Course:


I neglected to bring a pen to take notes. Consequently, there are a few items that remain nameless in this review, such as the cheeses featured above. I apologize. As for the flavors, again I apologize. I lack both the experience and vocabulary to fully detail the various tastes and aromas offered by cheese. If any readers can help me out, I would be most grateful for the opportunity to learn.

Tip: Mix the two layers.

Cheese is very enjoyable, but the palate needs a brief respite from its overwhelming heaviness before continuing to taste other items. This little sorbet offered just that. I've forgotten what composes the top layer, but the bottom is surely a concoction made with lemon/lime.


Fifth Course:

Lemon-Lime Tartelettes - red cranberry confiture

A series of treats concluded the night:





"Blown away." is what I'd use to describe my first impression of Addison. Service and hospitality? Stellar. The food? Glorious. You don't find this level of professionalism and attention to detail in many of San Diego's upscale restaurants. There is a reason why Addison is San Diego's first AAA five diamond restaurant--it is a cut above all the others.

As weird as this may sound, dinner at Addison was my highlight of 2008. While some of you may playfully (or not so playfully...) scoff at my pathetic life, I truly hope all the patrons to my blog can pencil in an evening on their calendar to enjoy an unparalleled dining experience here. It might not be your highlight, but I assure you, you'll be talking about it for months.



Once again, thank you Mr. Steenge, Chef Bradley, Chef Durfield, and staff for such a memorable dinner. I hope to visit you all soon again.






Addison
5200 Grand Del Mar Way
San Diego, CA 92130
858.314-1900

Mimosa

Here's a sampling from an authentic little French bistro that doesn't break your wallet.

The setting is very casual and can get pretty loud as the dinner hour progresses. Brightness and tone of the lights also change the later it gets. This'll make for very dim lighting that requires either flash or a tripod. I used neither, thus the mediocre pictures that have been "rescued" using Photoshop.


Appetizers:

French Onion Soup Gratinee
w/ "Comte" Cheese

I can count the number of times I've had French onion soup on one hand, but my brother orders it whenever he spots it on a menu. He's one helluva picky eater and he gave the soup two thumbs up. The two of us have similar tastes, so I trust him.

House Country Pate
Onion Marmelade

I was hoping for a more liver-dominant pate (my favorite), but these meaty ones certainly did not disappoint. Mimosa's pate is comparable to Pascal's. Rich, meaty, fatty. One could easily make a meal out of this appetizer since the bread basket is endless.

Steamed Mussels Marinier
with White Wine, Shallots, and Herbs

I can't remember the last time I had mussels this good. Swear to God, they were so fresh that I wouldn't doubt it if Mimosa has a tank of live ones out in the back. There are a total of three flavor options for steamed mussels at Mimosa and I opted for the simplest one as to better taste the meat. These were steamed to perfection and subtly flavored.

Tomato "Confit" Tart "Tatin"

A great light appetizer for a summer evening. My brother ordered this item so I really couldn't get a good taste in since he really tears into his food. The small bit I did get to try, though, was glorious. Tart was so light and flaky that it almost melted in my mouth. Literally. I'm sure it's from all the butter! As you can see, Mimosa has cooked(stewed?) the tomatoes and removed the skin, leaving only the sweet flesh.


Main Courses:

Grilled Filet of Sole
Artichokes "Minestrone" with Fava Beans, Piquillos Pepper and Preserved Lemon Relish

Here we have a nice slab of juicy sole filet topped over an artichoke "minestrone" (aka artichoke soup). You won't believe how tender and juicy the fish is until you try it. None of that rubbery nonsense that you might encounter in some restaurants. Flavor of the artichokes fits really well in this dish and the lemon relish bumps up the flavor profile just a tad bit more.

Steak Tartar
(Black Angus) Hand Chopped Lightly Spicy with Condiments

Some folks feel uneasy about eating raw beef. I can't imagine why, though. Maybe this dish can convert some non-believers? It is strange to associate the word "creamy" with meat, but in this case, it will have to do. Creamy, lightly spicy, hint of green onion, and sweet raw Black Angus beef. Mmm mmm!

Veal Sweetbread with Haricots Verts, Potato Puree, Capers, Lemon Confit

My star of the night! Mimosa dumps a real sizable portion of sweetbread on the plate. A little too much, if you ask me. These were so rich and judging from the taste of the grease, it seems like they were seared in yummy animal fat or something. Thankfully the lemon confit helps to cut some of the richness, but not enough to make me swap plates halfway with my mother's lighter plate of grilled sole. I highly suggest sharing this. Seriously. The portions are huge at Mimosa.


Dessert:

Pot de Chocolate Mousse

Dark chocolate mousse that is not overly sweet = I get a mouthgasm. Mimosa's is very light and airy. I hope to one day learn how to make choco-mousse of this caliber...

Pear Financier
Served Warm, Pecan Caramel Sauce, Vanilla Ice Cream

I had no idea what a "Financier" was, but turns out it's kinda like a sponge cake that tastes like almonds. Top it with ice cream and caramel and you get a big plate of YUM.






Mimosa
8009 Beverly Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90048
323.655.8895

Pascal Epicerie

This Orange County gem sits quietly in an unassuming strip mall hugging the 73. The restaurant is so well hidden I'll bet my SLR that even locals don't know it exists. Quite a modest location for someone with Chef Pascal Olhats' credentials. I won't bore you with his history, but let's just say chefs like him are typically found in more upscale areas.

Actually, I think I will bore you. Chef Olhats' accomplishments just cannot be overlooked:
- Chef owner of Pascal Restaurant, Épicerie Pascal & Café Jardin in Newport Beach since 1988.
- Attended Hotel School in Brussels, Belgium after apprenticeship in Rouen, Normandy.
- Worked for Master Chef Paul Bocuse in Lyon.
- Spent three years in St. Tropez at Club 55.
- Was a Chef at Hotel Le Meridian , Newport Beach & Restaurant Chanteclair , Irvine.
- Was Chef of the Year in 1991.
- Is the President of the French Chef's Association.
- Recipient of the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence.
- Pascal Restaurant received the 2006 Restaurant Hall of Fame National Award.


Pascal is small and very intimate with its soft lighting, luxurious seats, and fresh flowers. The ambience is so relaxed and romantic I'd bring my wife here for our anniversary. But, I'm getting ahead of myself there. I arrived for dinner on a Thursday night and was greeted by George Fortier, the Maitre d'. Seating was prompt and the service gracious. An amuse bouche of brioche and an onion spread glided to me from the kitchen as George inquired whether I would like sparkling or imported water. The tap is fine, thank you.

My server smoothly recited the evening's specials and was more than happy to help me decipher the French menu in his cute French accent. I settled for foie gras torchon, a cold meat plate, bouillabaise provencale, and braised rabbit. Regrettably, Chef Olhats signature dish Seabass au Thyme was unavailable. Pascal had run out of sea bass during lunch.

As I tucked away the last piece of brioche, warm artisan bread was brought to my table with a small tub of creamy salted butter. I've tasted all the available butter in our supermarkets, and none of those come close to this tub. The only way I know how to describe it is in Chinese, but its loose equivalent in English is "aromatic".

The first dish to arrive was Foie Gras Torchon served with a Fig & Pear Chutney, Pickled Baby Vegetables, and Brioche:

Spectacular pairing. The sweet tartness of the chutney goes very well with the thick creamy foie gras. Acid from the pickled vegetables helps to balance the dish. It gives your tongue a break from foie gras' heaviness. Still, the taste of smoky foie gras haunts me! I will never forget this dish. As Elmomonster eloquently explains, "The pleasure of eating foie gras is sanguineous and carnal. It's like pornography for the palate, and you feel naughty for loving it."

The next course was Assiette De Charcuterie:

Various cold cuts are served in this dish typically made to be shared with the table. Starting counter-clockwise from the foreground: Duck Prosciutto, two types of Pate, Baby Pickles, sauteed onions, and Saucisson.

This dish arrived with perfectly toasted slices of French bread. The Prosciutto was aged very nicely. Each bite tasted like concentrated duck! Pate was great. I especially enjoyed the paler variant hidden under the pink one. Pale one was smoother and had liver in it. The pink one was meatier and slightly chunkier. The Saucisson was pretty interesting and reminded me of Chinese sausage except it was not as sweet and was spiced.

After a brief break, a pipping hot Bouillabaise Provencale arrived:

This is a soup of Steamed Bass & Seafood in a Spicy Saffron & Tomato Broth. What kind of seafood? Clams, Mussels, Scallops, Shrimp, and Squid. Super. Fresh. These ingredients tasted a helluva lot better than what we buy at the grocery store.

The soup was rich and flavorful. Duh. It was basically a seafood broth. If you've had bisque, the soup is kind of like that. The bass was perfectly cooked, very tender. Mussels were a tad on the small side, but they made up for it in freshness and flavor. The scallops were fuggin' huge, and like the bass, perfectly cooked. It's quite easy to over or under-cook the fish in dishes like this. Well, for amateurs at least.

George suggested I dip bread into the soup. That was fine and all, but my starters all involved bread. Plus I don't need the carbs.

This course came with a 5" ceramic bucket for me to set aside the shells. Classy.

I've been dying to try rabbit for years and here was my chance--Braised Rabbit with Wild Mushrooms and Roasted Potatoes:


As you can see, I was a little rushed taking this picture. When my rabbit arrived, I just could not wait to dig in. Chef Olhats used wine when he braised the rabbit. The result? Uber rich broth and a very gamey rabbit. My sponsor for the dish (left) agreed after judging the flavor, that the braised rabbit was possibly wild and not farm raised. There was at least half a rabbit in my personal pot. I could hardly finish! Meat fell lazily off the bones as I dug around them. Texture hardly varied as I moved from white to dark meat. Each section was lean yet still juicy and supple. If you have cooked cornish hen in a broth before (and controlled the temp/time), the texture of the rabbit is pretty similar to the dark meat. The taste however, is completely different.

Many people say rabbit tastes like chicken. Hmph. Tastes like chicken my ass. Rabbit has its own distinctive flavor. Not as gamey as venison, but just a little.

You haven't tried roasted potatoes till you've had these potatoes. The butter they use is very thick and flavorful. The salt used was top notch and helped the side tremendously. These are the best I've ever had.


The dark empty void that is my stomach screamed for dessert. Should I have the Lavender Creme Brulee? Or the Twice-Baked Cheesecake Souffle served with berries and Tahitian Vanilla Ice Cream?:

This dessert is served in a wide, pipping hot bowl about 1.5" deep. You definitely want to share this one. Berries included blueberries, two strawberries, two raspberries, and a blackberry. The berries I have at home are a bit larger and a tad sweeter, but then again I don't buy in bulk like these guys do. Hand picked all the way! The ice cream blows Ben & Jerry's away, makes Coldstone look silly, and could put Baskin Robbins out of business. Yes. It's that good. This is the first time I've had ice cream this aromatic. I could actually taste real vanilla! The syrup was a bit overkill, but then again, I'm not your average sugar-loving American. Now the souffle....oh the souffle....Light, delicate, warm!, & creamy. The golden brown surface gave in gently to reveal a moist interior. Perfect control of the oven temp. As for the taste, imagine a cheesecake that's a bit easier on the cheese. As for the texture, well...its a souffle. A very well done one at that. Bravo!

My aunt makes a mean Japanese version, but Chef Olhats gives her a run for her money.

Sadly, this could have been a great picture, but you know what? I couldn't wait to dig in. Ice cream doesn't wait for you when its getting hot n bothered.


I can't wait to return here after I've completed my Orange County restaurant rotation. I find it odd that customers have found the service at Pascal haughty. During my visit, I did not detect a single note of snobbishness or arrogance in the wait staff. Everyone was attentive, helped me overcome the language barrier on the menu, and the Maitre d' even stopped by my table to chat a bit. Oh and the food..I don't think folks eat much better than this in Heaven. Flawless execution of French Provencale cuisine coupled with a very professional wait staff more than satisfied my inner glutton.